September 23 2009
iSpyStyle welcomes the re-emergence of the lost art of shoe making. Here, iSpyStyle director Kate Vandermeer shares her thoughts on a target worth following.

Kate Vandermeer is director of iSpyStyle - a website and consultancy that spies on the design and fashion industry providing trend and business information targeted to inspire, inform and connect. Follow Kate on Twitter at www.twitter.com/iSpyStyle_Kate or subscribe to her website for free on www.ispystyle.net
It's great to see the role of "artisans" becoming prevalent again within the Australian design landscape. This is a trend I've seen emerging over time - with the rejection of fast, disposable fashion beginning to take hold, the obvious reaction to this is the role of handmade, local artisans that make limited edition, lovingly made pieces that have a sense of timelessness with the buyer becoming part of the story.
My attention was first drawn to designers Gabrielle Thompson and Shannon Gunn of Tom Gunn when I shortlisted them as part of my role as Fashion Category Producer for the Soya Awards sponsored by Qantas. I was so impressed with their unique signature style alongside the fact they honed their craft at the prestigious Ars Arpel School in Milan.
They split their time designing the collection in Australia and sourcing fabrications and creating in Italy. Their second collection for Spring Summer is more fashion forward with attention to contrast detailing and precise fits. I predict they will be a design duo to watch. www.tomgunnshoes.com
September 23 2009
Good product may be the basis of good retail, but visual merchandising is the key to greatness. Here, visual merchandising expert, Nicholas Arnold unlocks the secrets of Seed childrenswear.

Nicholas Arnold is principal of Visual Merchandising Solutions (VMS), a retail consultancy specialising in visual merchandising, point-of-sale and promotion development, including retail staff training.
One of the few retailers that stand out in terms of presentation is Seed. This clever little children's fashion boutique has been wowing customers with fantastic, inspiring presentation for a few years now. As soon as you walk in you are drawn to any number of quirky, fun loving displays. The boys' and girls' products range from tiny cool belle shoes to trendy cargo pants - all presented in a theme that is relevant, as well as being executed in such a way that the ambience of the store takes you on an inspiring journey.
How, you might ask yourself, has Seed been so successful in standing head and shoulders above every other retailer in its category? This question is relevant to all retailers. Not just to children's stores but to footwear retailers as well.
Let's break it down visually.
Firstly, the Seed guys hit you before you even enter the store. They create beautiful, theatrical displays that last for a number of months, with just the mannequins changed to reflect current stock deliveries. This gives Seed the ability to spend more on a window display that is executed in a professional manner.
Remember, your windows are the eyes of the store. They are the most cost effective and direct form of communication with your customer. At a glance, customers will decide if your business is a fit with them, their lifestyle, ambitions and aspirations. They will enter or not based on how they perceive your window display.
Secondly, Seed visual merchandisers carry the window theme through the entire store. They use shelf displays that are highly propped to maintain customers' focus where it should be, directed at the products. Again all theming is relevant to the product category. In this case the displays are designed to tweak at the emotions of the parent. They are getting at the child within the adult. Very clever!
The secret for any retailer is to know what it is that motivates your customer. Once you understand that you're more than half way there.
Visual Merchandising Solutions is a retail consultancy specialising in visual merchandising, point-of-sale and promotion development, including retail staff training. Find out more at www.vmsretail.net
September 23 2009
This week's Mpdclick snapshot: Statement hi-tops continue to be a favoured style, noticed in bold neon hues for a truly retro feel to casual styling. Two-tone brogues provide a smarter alternative and a 1920's vintage feel while adventure boots evoke a feel of the outdoors with practicality and style.

August 26 2009
Specialising in stylish footwear in sizes 2 to 5, New Zealand online retailer Indigo River came into being as an act of defiance, when its founder realised she'd had enough of trawling children's stores in search of appropriate footwear... for herself.

Nicky Harding-Ifield
A proud size 3, Nicky Harding-Ifield is a former primary school teacher who once had a year 7 pupil ask where she got her shoes from, as the pupil had the same style at home. Until she founded her own company, this was the story of her life.
The relationship between women and their shoes is a time honoured one - ladies and shoe shopping go together like apple pie and cream. And yet, most of us take this special bond for granted; shoes don't exactly fit the description of a niche market. But what if your feet were small? Really small. So small that the idea of finding a pair of real, grown up heels was as likely as tripping over the Holy Grail. This was Nicky Ifield-Harding's dilemma until she founded a business to solve it.
"I didn't own my first pair of heels until I was in my late 20's. I was living in England and purchased most of my small shoes online. It was quite depressing really. I wasn't able to wear dresses or skirts because I didn't have any fashionable shoes. I could get trainers but that was about it," she says, adding that weddings and special events were particularly dreary in this regard. Returning home from the UK, the dearth of desirable small sized shoes in New Zealand was a turning point.
"The more I got frustrated, the more I though I just have to bite the bullet and do something about it myself.".
Clearly, working to the adage that "it takes one to know one" is as good a basis for a business as any. Operating since 2008, Indigo River has gone from strength to strength, catering to women whose style far outreaches their shoe size.
Early on the company's unusual offer secured it a spot on prime time television, creating a sudden growth boost. Furthermore, Harding-Ifield's own small feet have created instant customer empathy, and the fact that she wears her own product makes her a walking advertisement. Located at IndigoRiver.co.nz, the company also regularly sells through temporary shops in hotels in Christchurch and Dunedin and holds focus groups twice a year to gauge customer demand.
The bulk of product is sourced from Europe and America, and Harding-Ifield says finding suppliers that make good quality, reasonably priced size 32-35 shoes has been her biggest challenge. "We strictly work with suppliers who can provide shoes in sizes 32 upwards. I also have customers that are smaller than size 32 so I am constantly annoying my suppliers to make them smaller."
From September the company will stock Australian shoe label Esther Perez - an exhibitor at the Australian Shoe Fair in Melbourne from August 30 to September 1. Over the longer term, Harding-Ifield hopes to produce her own line of footwear and is also eyeing opportunities in Australia.
"It is very much a niche market but really there's no one in Australia specialising in selling small-sized shoes."
Downturns, slumps, recessions and adjustments force us to think in new ways and re-evaluate the old. Now's time to be brave and smart in retail, says WGSN content director Juliet Warkentin.

Juliet Warkentin
A seasoned communications strategist, marketer and editor, Juliet joined WGSN in 2007. Her expertise covers change programmes, brand regeneration and client relationship management. Juliet's ‘Brave and Smart' presentation was a highlight of the 2009 L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival Business Seminar.
Service is more important than ever
Customer service doesn't even start at the shop door anymore, which makes good service even trickier to achieve. Word of mouth, Facebook groups and price comparison shopping sites are all doing your customer service for you, meaning you need to stay on the ball in terms of service across all formats
Brand DNA rules
Now more than ever, customers are thinking hard about who they want to spend their money with. If they don't understand what a brand stands for, they won't care enough to give it a chance.
Brand Trust
Without trust and authority no brand can survive. Nurturing these entails a credible retail experience, good service and consistent product.
Throw out the rule book
Everything we thought we knew about the way the world works is changing right now. So throwing out the rule book doesn't seem so crazy anymore. Be innovative, utilise new communications tools to get the word out there and be brave with your product offer.
Find the value sweet spot
There is no question that value is what consumers want right now, at every level of the market. The point here is that the value sweet spot is not just about price anymore. It used to be that Value = Quality + Price in the mind of the consumer. Today there's an extra factor: Want. Desirability is the new X-factor.
More than ever creativity means business
When times get tough, tension inevitably occurs between design studios pushing ‘new' ideas and buyers worried they don't have a ‘winner' on their hands. Now is the time to be brave and push the boundaries. Chances are that having something different to offer will stand you in good stead.
Maintain leadership
None of these ideas can be implemented without strong, visionary leadership. Communicate with both head office and store staff on a regular basis and make sure your message is consistent. Celebrate good results with awards that promote teamwork while also recognising individuals who excel.
When times are tough, a strong message is your strongest ally. Shoe Fair Online talks downturn marketing strategies with Serena Beirne, director of Sydney based consultancy Australian Fashion Partners.

Serena Beirne
Armed with Masters degrees in Business Administration and Management, along with expertise in brand marketing, product development and PR, Serena works with a range of clients in the fashion and footwear retail sector to help them grow their business.
What are the top marketing priorities for shoe retailers at the moment?
Become a "Category of One" - in other words work on developing a tight value proposition that distinguishes you from the rest of the footwear herd. Find a compelling reason why people with feet would buy your product over your competition. If you can't think of any then you may need to fine-tune your product to offer one. It can be service based, product based, or price based, but the first two are by far the best.
What's the key mistake marketers tend to make during tough times?
Dropping marketing spend. You need to find ways to let those same people with feet we mentioned above know about your product and what makes it a great footwear choice. And don't just advertise or promote your product in media or locations where you spend time. Work with an experienced market strategist who can save you money by targeting your advertising and promotional spend.
How important is an online presence?
Increasingly important; Australia's footwear success stories including PeepToe Shoes and Harolds Boots have slick, clever e-stores that make online shoe shopping a breeze. Make your online presence easy to use including sizing info, access to ordering help and a no fuss returns policy.
What other low cost strategies are effective in attracting customers?
Find ambassadors for your brand - target end users that suit your product's image and court them to wear your stuff. Include images and stories about where they wore them on your site and in marketing collateral.
What branding strategies work best during tough times?
Develop a great brand identity that fits your value proposition. Even if you are comfortable with your brand name, make sure the way it is presented reflects what you want people to know about your shoes and helps them connect with your product. This is a fairly scientific process but a good brand strategist can help you achieve it in a meaningful and cost effective way. Don't skimp on your brand identity and get your creative aunt to put it together. This is your label's front door - the investment is worth it! Also focus on quality more than ever. Consumers may be buying less but they are after products that last. Keep your eye on the ball with respect to well made product and if you are proud of your label's quality, let everyone know.